Been Tweaking a few things here and there.
On Ebay. A new F.A.Q section is on my ME page. Questions include,
How do I add the Fur? What are the costumes made of? ect...
You can see the ME page here: http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=aleah_klay
The Auction pages look a bit different too. Under shipping we've added expected delivery times based on which Country you are in. This should help international collectors a lot since shipping time varies so much from Country to Country.
Over on Etsy. With the beginner in mind, We've created a supplies kit for Creating a Miniature Yorkshire Terrier. This Kit is meant to go with the Yorkshire Terrier Sculpting Tutorial.
It is the cheapest way to get all the materials needed. The beginner living in the USA who has none of the supplies would be spending $30.00-$40.00 to get everything.
With my kit you can now try sculpting and furring a miniature for just $12.99 http://www.etsy.com/shop/aleahklay
Still working on more tutorials, guides, and kits but it's all going very slowly. I can only work on them part time for now. When they are finished They'll be available on Etsy and will be announced on this blog as well as on the Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Aleah-Klay-Miniatures/315174175161057
Until next time, Happy Sculpting!
Aleah
Friday, March 9, 2012
Thursday, February 2, 2012
How to Apply fur to polymer clay animal sculptures
You'll need Aileen's Clear Gel Tacky Glue, and fur.
I use Viscose doll hair but only because it is the thinnest I can find and I need thin for micro mini's. You can use anything though.
Add the fur in very thin layers, and just a few strands at a time. Start from the back of the animal, (leg or tail) then work your way up to the snout. For areas with thin fur (snout, paws ect..)I create flocking by cutting the fiber into a nearly powder like consistency.
To add color Start by dyeing/finding fur which matches the lightest shade of the real animal, The rest of the color (highlights, shadow, markings) is added with inks or Acrylic paints.
A couple of years ago I created a tutorial for sculpting and furring a Yorkshire Terrier. It is complete instructions from lump of clay to finished, furred, painted Yorkie. It is available here: http://store.payloadz.com/detail_html.asp?i=944907
xoxo
Aleah
I use Viscose doll hair but only because it is the thinnest I can find and I need thin for micro mini's. You can use anything though.
Add the fur in very thin layers, and just a few strands at a time. Start from the back of the animal, (leg or tail) then work your way up to the snout. For areas with thin fur (snout, paws ect..)I create flocking by cutting the fiber into a nearly powder like consistency.
To add color Start by dyeing/finding fur which matches the lightest shade of the real animal, The rest of the color (highlights, shadow, markings) is added with inks or Acrylic paints.
A couple of years ago I created a tutorial for sculpting and furring a Yorkshire Terrier. It is complete instructions from lump of clay to finished, furred, painted Yorkie. It is available here: http://store.payloadz.com/detail_html.asp?i=944907
xoxo
Aleah
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Dyeing viscose doll hair: Streaking three colors
I've noticed sometimes doll's hair doesn't look realistic because artists use just one shade of color. In reality hair has multiple shades of a specific color.
I've experimented and come up with one method (I'm sure there are many others) for streaking viscose doll hair. I say streaking but really it is combining three or more shades and not actual streaking.
In my last article I wrote about how to dye Viscose doll hair. For this technique you will need three or more shades of previously dyed doll hair.
Take your three colors of viscose doll hair.If needed brush out with a tooth brush.
Cut equal lengths of all three colors. split each color into smaller pieces.
Lay them side by side in an alternating pattern. Split them into a few smaller clusters.
Then begin blending by pulling pieces of the cluster out then adding it back and pull another section of the cluster and put back repeat until the hair is blended as much or as little as you'd like.You may need to repeat this part 30 times or so.
The cluster on the left shows what it looks like blended.
xoxo
Aleah
I've experimented and come up with one method (I'm sure there are many others) for streaking viscose doll hair. I say streaking but really it is combining three or more shades and not actual streaking.
In my last article I wrote about how to dye Viscose doll hair. For this technique you will need three or more shades of previously dyed doll hair.
Take your three colors of viscose doll hair.If needed brush out with a tooth brush.
Cut equal lengths of all three colors. split each color into smaller pieces.
Lay them side by side in an alternating pattern. Split them into a few smaller clusters.
Then begin blending by pulling pieces of the cluster out then adding it back and pull another section of the cluster and put back repeat until the hair is blended as much or as little as you'd like.You may need to repeat this part 30 times or so.
xoxo
Aleah
Monday, January 16, 2012
Dyeing Viscose doll hair with Rit dye
Take your viscose and tie a knot into one end. This prevents the doll hair from becoming a tangled mess in the dye bath.
Add a bit of water to the bottom of a small sauce pan. Set stove to medium add a drop of Rit dye.
Note: to make the color lighter, add more water to make it darker use less water and/or add a tiny bit of black Rit dye.
Take your viscose doll hair and run under water to make damp. Then put the viscose in the dye bath.
How long you leave it in depends on how light or dark you want the color. If you'd like a light color leave it in for only a minute or so. For darker colors add a few more minutes.
When you've the color you'd like, take the viscose out with a spoon place on paper towel, then pat dry with a few paper towels. Lay flat to let it dry, or if you're in a hury use a hair dryer.
My next blog entry will be about how to add streaks using three different shades of Rit dyed, viscose doll hair.
xoxo
Aleah
Note: to make the color lighter, add more water to make it darker use less water and/or add a tiny bit of black Rit dye.
Take your viscose doll hair and run under water to make damp. Then put the viscose in the dye bath.
How long you leave it in depends on how light or dark you want the color. If you'd like a light color leave it in for only a minute or so. For darker colors add a few more minutes.
When you've the color you'd like, take the viscose out with a spoon place on paper towel, then pat dry with a few paper towels. Lay flat to let it dry, or if you're in a hury use a hair dryer.
My next blog entry will be about how to add streaks using three different shades of Rit dyed, viscose doll hair.
xoxo
Aleah
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Conditioning Polymer Clay
Level of Experience: Beginner
Polymer clays need to be conditioned before sculpting. One good way to condition polymer clay is to first break off/cut off the amount of clay you want to use. Then roll it in your hands 30 seconds or so to warm the clay. Then begin to knead the clay (flatten, fold in half, and repeat). until the clay is soft and easier to work with. After conditioning your clay if it is still to firm or soft after conditioning you have a couple of options:
If to firm: Mix your polymer clay with Fimo Mix quick (if you are using fimo) or Sculpey Clay softner (If you are using Polyform clays).
If to soft: You can Leach your clay by placing it inbetween layers of paper. I use at least 10 sheets of white printer paper. 5 under neath the clay and 5 above the clay. I Then place something heavy on top of the whole stack. At least 24 hours later I remove the clay and check it. Usually by then it is ready to be sculpted with.
xoxo -Aleah
Polymer clays need to be conditioned before sculpting. One good way to condition polymer clay is to first break off/cut off the amount of clay you want to use. Then roll it in your hands 30 seconds or so to warm the clay. Then begin to knead the clay (flatten, fold in half, and repeat). until the clay is soft and easier to work with. After conditioning your clay if it is still to firm or soft after conditioning you have a couple of options:
If to firm: Mix your polymer clay with Fimo Mix quick (if you are using fimo) or Sculpey Clay softner (If you are using Polyform clays).
If to soft: You can Leach your clay by placing it inbetween layers of paper. I use at least 10 sheets of white printer paper. 5 under neath the clay and 5 above the clay. I Then place something heavy on top of the whole stack. At least 24 hours later I remove the clay and check it. Usually by then it is ready to be sculpted with.
xoxo -Aleah
Friday, December 23, 2011
How to fix Moonies
Level of Experience: Beginner
Polymer clay moonies that is.... (In case you were thinking of something else).
In my last article I briefly mentioned Polymer clay moonies. I thought I'd write more about them with this article.
Moonies are tiny cracks appearing on, or just below the surface of a polymer clay sculpture. Their are lot's of theories as to what causes them. could be due to tiny bits of air trapped under the clay. Might have
something to do with humidity, Or the mixture of clay. I do not know the exact reasons.
I can say from my experimenting with different brands of polymer clay. Some brands of polymer clays are more prone to moonies, compared to other brands. For example when I worked in Super Sculpey and Sculpey III I got lots of moonies.
I've been using FIMO for the past few years and have not had a single issue with cracks or moonies.
For those who prefer the polymer clay brands which are prone to moonies their is some good news. You can repair them. :0)
If the crack or moonie is not to far into the sculpture you can simply carve and Sand them out.
If the moonies deep they can be carved out, then using a mix of grated sawdust-like polymer clay particles (to match the sculptures color) mixed with Epoxy Glue, a filler can be created.
After mixing the filler You fill in the hole and let it air dry.
One of the biggest let downs of a doll artist is to pull your newly cured sculpt out of the oven and see....Cracks, and Moonies. It is a dreaded moment indeed. Makes the mightiest among us weep. Well wipe those tears...take out the neglected, unfinished, Moonie filled sculpts then repair those cracks!
And have a very Merry Christmas
xoxo
Aleah
Polymer clay moonies that is.... (In case you were thinking of something else).
In my last article I briefly mentioned Polymer clay moonies. I thought I'd write more about them with this article.
Moonies are tiny cracks appearing on, or just below the surface of a polymer clay sculpture. Their are lot's of theories as to what causes them. could be due to tiny bits of air trapped under the clay. Might have
something to do with humidity, Or the mixture of clay. I do not know the exact reasons.
I can say from my experimenting with different brands of polymer clay. Some brands of polymer clays are more prone to moonies, compared to other brands. For example when I worked in Super Sculpey and Sculpey III I got lots of moonies.
I've been using FIMO for the past few years and have not had a single issue with cracks or moonies.
For those who prefer the polymer clay brands which are prone to moonies their is some good news. You can repair them. :0)
If the crack or moonie is not to far into the sculpture you can simply carve and Sand them out.
If the moonies deep they can be carved out, then using a mix of grated sawdust-like polymer clay particles (to match the sculptures color) mixed with Epoxy Glue, a filler can be created.
After mixing the filler You fill in the hole and let it air dry.
One of the biggest let downs of a doll artist is to pull your newly cured sculpt out of the oven and see....Cracks, and Moonies. It is a dreaded moment indeed. Makes the mightiest among us weep. Well wipe those tears...take out the neglected, unfinished, Moonie filled sculpts then repair those cracks!
And have a very Merry Christmas
xoxo
Aleah
Friday, December 16, 2011
Polymer Clay Brands and the differences between them.
Level of Experience: Beginner
I'd like my blog to be filled with, tips and information related to what I do, Creating Art dolls, and Miniatures. So I thought I'd start at the beginning. In this article you'll read about the differences of the types of polymer clays I've used.
Depending on where you live you may not be able to get all the different brands of polymer clay. So I've listed every type I know of. Even the ones I've not yet tried.
The clay I prefer is Fimo Classic. But I recommend trying at least a few different brands and types. I prefer firmer clays like Fimo classic but some artists prefer the softer clays such as Super Sculpey, or Prosculpt. over the firmer ones.
_________________________________________________________
List of Polymer Clays:
STAEDTLER PRODUCTS (Fimo)
Fimo Classic- Fimo classic is one of the firmer clays. Holds detail well. It is slightly flexible and is tougher to break. Comes in 24 colors. All colors can be
mixed to create other colors.
If not conditioned or kneaded this clay can crack while sculpting (before it's been cured). It is firm and can be difficult to knead on it's own. A fix for this is to
blend Fimo Mix Quick into Fimo Classic. After it's been cured it is very strong, and a little pliable
Fimo Soft: Softer then Fimo classic and easier on the hands. Also Comes in 24 colors. Can become too soft and difficult to sculpt with. Not a good clay for those
who prefer firmer polymer clays.
Fimo effects: Clays that have something a little different to them For example Translucentcy, Glitters/shimmers, Metalics, Marble effects ect.... They are soft clays easy on the hands.
but again may be difficult to sculpt with. A fix for this would be to mix with the firmer Fimo classic. However that will have an impact on
the color and "effects" element of the clay. Comes in 24 colors with 5 different effects.
Puppen Fimo: Holds detail well, has a skin like translucency, comes in four skin tones. (porcelain, rose, beige, and Flesh) Holds detail well. Can be Firm and difficult to knead.
This problem can be fixed with Fimo Mix Quick, and/or the use of a Pasta Machine or roller in place of kneading.
Liquid Fimo: Liquid Translucent polymer clay. Similar to Translucent Liquid Sculpey. A difference between the two. Liquid Fimo gets clearer then Translucent Liquid Sculpey.
Fimo Mix Quick: Colorless kneading Aid for Fimo clays. Mix with firm clay to create a softer clay.
POLYFORM PRODUCTS
Original Sculpey: This is the first polymer clay I tried and I did not like it much. It breaks easily and is very soft. Comes in one color (White).
Super Sculpey: Skin tone clay but in my opinion it's not really a natural looking skin tone. Tends to get Moonies (small cracks under the surface of the cured clay). Moonies can be carved out and repared. I'll write more about that in another article. Breaks easier then Fimo. Isn't very pliable.
Sculpey III: Comes in 44 colors, can be mixed to create more colors. Breaks easily, and is a softer clay.
Premo: Comes in 34 colors. This is a firmer clay. Was designed for bead work.
Premo Accents: Has effects like Fimo Effects. Although I've not tried this clay so cannot say anything else about it.
Granitex: Comes as an 8 piece set. Has a "Granit" look. Is soft like sculpey III
Bake & Bend: Fun clay designed with kids in mind. It is VERY soft and difficult to sculpt with but as the name says you can bend it. I once Created a bake and bend dragon with a complete armature. The result was I had a very poseable Dragon. Although after a bit of posing the clay gets white and moonie looking. But it never did break completely off the wire armature.
Sculpey Translucent liquid (TLS): Similar to Liquid Fimo. This is a liquid polymer clay. Doesn't seem to get as translucent as Liquid Fimo does. Otherwise very similar to Liquid Fimo
Below are Polyform products I've not tried yet. I've listed them so you know they exist but can not write about my own experiences with them. Since I've had none.
Eraser Clay
Bake shop
Glow in the dark
Sculpey Ultra light
Super Sculpey Firm
Super Sculpey Living doll
Jack Johnston's clay.
Prosculpt: comes in 4 doll skin tone colors (Baby, Caucasian Flesh, Ethnic Brown, and Light) It is one of the softer clays. Ocassionally gets moonies.
Below I've listed lesser known types of polymer clay. With the exception of Cernit,These are also clays I've not used so I can't give any info. Some of these clays are only sold in specific countries and may not be available where you live.
Cernit: Comes in beautiful doll skin tone colors. It is EXTREMELY soft and prone to getting moonies. It was so soft, when I used this clay I mixed it with Super Sculpey. This made it slightly firmer and I was then able to sculpt with it. I should note: Polymer clay Manufacturers do not reccomend mixing different brands of clay.
Kato Polyclay
Friendly clay
Du-Kit Only available in New Zealand, Australia and Singapore
Artist's Modelene Only available in Australia
I'd like my blog to be filled with, tips and information related to what I do, Creating Art dolls, and Miniatures. So I thought I'd start at the beginning. In this article you'll read about the differences of the types of polymer clays I've used.
Depending on where you live you may not be able to get all the different brands of polymer clay. So I've listed every type I know of. Even the ones I've not yet tried.
The clay I prefer is Fimo Classic. But I recommend trying at least a few different brands and types. I prefer firmer clays like Fimo classic but some artists prefer the softer clays such as Super Sculpey, or Prosculpt. over the firmer ones.
_________________________________________________________
List of Polymer Clays:
STAEDTLER PRODUCTS (Fimo)
Fimo Classic- Fimo classic is one of the firmer clays. Holds detail well. It is slightly flexible and is tougher to break. Comes in 24 colors. All colors can be
mixed to create other colors.
If not conditioned or kneaded this clay can crack while sculpting (before it's been cured). It is firm and can be difficult to knead on it's own. A fix for this is to
blend Fimo Mix Quick into Fimo Classic. After it's been cured it is very strong, and a little pliable
Fimo Soft: Softer then Fimo classic and easier on the hands. Also Comes in 24 colors. Can become too soft and difficult to sculpt with. Not a good clay for those
who prefer firmer polymer clays.
Fimo effects: Clays that have something a little different to them For example Translucentcy, Glitters/shimmers, Metalics, Marble effects ect.... They are soft clays easy on the hands.
but again may be difficult to sculpt with. A fix for this would be to mix with the firmer Fimo classic. However that will have an impact on
the color and "effects" element of the clay. Comes in 24 colors with 5 different effects.
Puppen Fimo: Holds detail well, has a skin like translucency, comes in four skin tones. (porcelain, rose, beige, and Flesh) Holds detail well. Can be Firm and difficult to knead.
This problem can be fixed with Fimo Mix Quick, and/or the use of a Pasta Machine or roller in place of kneading.
Liquid Fimo: Liquid Translucent polymer clay. Similar to Translucent Liquid Sculpey. A difference between the two. Liquid Fimo gets clearer then Translucent Liquid Sculpey.
Fimo Mix Quick: Colorless kneading Aid for Fimo clays. Mix with firm clay to create a softer clay.
POLYFORM PRODUCTS
Original Sculpey: This is the first polymer clay I tried and I did not like it much. It breaks easily and is very soft. Comes in one color (White).
Super Sculpey: Skin tone clay but in my opinion it's not really a natural looking skin tone. Tends to get Moonies (small cracks under the surface of the cured clay). Moonies can be carved out and repared. I'll write more about that in another article. Breaks easier then Fimo. Isn't very pliable.
Sculpey III: Comes in 44 colors, can be mixed to create more colors. Breaks easily, and is a softer clay.
Premo: Comes in 34 colors. This is a firmer clay. Was designed for bead work.
Premo Accents: Has effects like Fimo Effects. Although I've not tried this clay so cannot say anything else about it.
Granitex: Comes as an 8 piece set. Has a "Granit" look. Is soft like sculpey III
Bake & Bend: Fun clay designed with kids in mind. It is VERY soft and difficult to sculpt with but as the name says you can bend it. I once Created a bake and bend dragon with a complete armature. The result was I had a very poseable Dragon. Although after a bit of posing the clay gets white and moonie looking. But it never did break completely off the wire armature.
Sculpey Translucent liquid (TLS): Similar to Liquid Fimo. This is a liquid polymer clay. Doesn't seem to get as translucent as Liquid Fimo does. Otherwise very similar to Liquid Fimo
Below are Polyform products I've not tried yet. I've listed them so you know they exist but can not write about my own experiences with them. Since I've had none.
Eraser Clay
Bake shop
Glow in the dark
Sculpey Ultra light
Super Sculpey Firm
Super Sculpey Living doll
Jack Johnston's clay.
Prosculpt: comes in 4 doll skin tone colors (Baby, Caucasian Flesh, Ethnic Brown, and Light) It is one of the softer clays. Ocassionally gets moonies.
Below I've listed lesser known types of polymer clay. With the exception of Cernit,These are also clays I've not used so I can't give any info. Some of these clays are only sold in specific countries and may not be available where you live.
Cernit: Comes in beautiful doll skin tone colors. It is EXTREMELY soft and prone to getting moonies. It was so soft, when I used this clay I mixed it with Super Sculpey. This made it slightly firmer and I was then able to sculpt with it. I should note: Polymer clay Manufacturers do not reccomend mixing different brands of clay.
Kato Polyclay
Friendly clay
Du-Kit Only available in New Zealand, Australia and Singapore
Artist's Modelene Only available in Australia
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